Monday, November 30, 2009

MOments at the Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona

After friday nights Bachanal.......my wonderful boyfriend had a surprise in store for me. It was my official birthday dinner, and we were able to get a table to MOments, belonging to the famed Carme Ruscalleda's  (3 star Michelin) son, on the third night of the opening of the Mandarin Oriental in Barcelona.  This was a complete secret, and you can imagine how excited I was to be one of the lucky ones to go so soon after it opened.  From the moment we walked in, it was pure luxury.  The hotel itself is situated right on Paseo de Gracia, in an old bank building.  We were escorted to the restaurant, and from star to finish, the service was impeccable.  There has to be something said about service in Barcelona, it is notoriously lacking in good service in the restaurant industry.  Generally, waitstaff here treat you as if they are doing YOU a favour, and if you garner up the guts to ask for something like, let´s say, a fork, beware you will receive a look of complete disdain....I mean, who needs a fork to eat right?

So, I was so full, so tired of eating, but oh my....once I saw the tasting menu, I mean, hey what´s nine more courses on a full stomach?  I can always forgo eating for the rest of my life, but tonight, BRING IT ON.

I have to say, that the restaurant was so beautifully decorated, the menus, the charger plates, the glasses.....so perfect, and at the same time, so soothing.

Isn´t it gorgeous?  So these are the ratings for the items I ate, and I won´t include pictures of them all, just my favorites.

* Great

** Excellent

*** Sublime
Novembers Amuse Bouche:
Mixed mushroom and "butifarra" (sausage) croquette* - it was good, but it lacked a bit of "umph"















"Japonica Rice" Sushi style rice with anchovy, green olive and pine nuts - lower right in picture

Salted marzipan with spiced wine and manchego cheese *** - I thought the combination sounded odd, but you popped this little morsel in your mouth, and the immediate taste was the saltiness of the manchego cheese, then the soft marzipan and then BOOM....all that lovely spiced wine just filled your mouth!









Rabbit "escabeche" with mandarin oranges *** - This was one of the best dishes of the night, escabeche is a type of brine, that flavours, but at the same time it conserves whatever it is you are using by the acid, spice and oil.  I'm not including a picture, because frankly....it does it no justice.

First Courses:
Salt cod three ways with sausage broth and black pudding crisp *

Scallops with artichoke three ways *** - Definately my favourite of the first courses, and the main meal.  I personally love artichoke, I could eat it until my stomach explodes.  The sweetness of the scallops, that were perfectly pan seared balanced the saltiness of the fried artichoke crips, with the tender hearts in a smooth artichoke broth.  Gorgeous.

Red mullet stuffed with sauteéd vegetables over a saffron cream

Meat course:
Venison loin with berries and potato "millefuille" ** - This was delicious, especially when you mixed the venison with the berries.  I could have definately had a second plate of this!
Then we moved on to the cheese course.  I was really impressed by the selection of cheeses, the presentation, and the accompaniments.  We were given this cute little card, with the explanation of the cheeses and the order of which we were supposed to eat it.



Then there was the dessert course.  I have to say, this was my absolute favorite of the whole night.  It was the plate that surprised me the most, and made me re-think of the use of certain elements and taste combinations.  When I describe it, dear reader, you are probably going to gag a bit, but trust me, oh do, that this was the most refreshing and delicious thing I have tasted in a long long time.

IKEBANA ******* (have to give it like a million stars)  Vanilla ice cream, over avocado and onion, with vinegar cheese atop a sweet filo crisp, in a cider and olive oil sauce.  Words CANNOT describe how beautifully the different tasted intermingled.  This was a true test of the chef´s genius abilitly to think outside the box and happily introduce us to new ways of enjoying our desserts.  Bravo, I say, bravo.

Then after this, they brought out a small cake to celebrate my birthday.  It was good, but honestly, after Ikebana, everything seemed to pale in comparison.  There was even a chocolate dessert that I have failed to mention, which was very good, but after tasting Ikebana, it just seemed, well, normal.

It was a magical night, I can´t beleive that I was able to walk at all after two nights of marathon eating.  Somehow, I made it home that night, and promptly plopped myself onto the sofa, and fell into a food induced coma.


Friday, November 27, 2009

Inopia Tapas Bar and XIX Gins and Cocktails







Last night for my birthday, Paolo took me to my favorite tapas bar in Barcelona.




Inopia Classic Bar.




I personally think it is the best tapas restaurant in Barcelona. It is owned by Albert Adria, El Bulli´s famous pastry chef and brother of Ferran Adria. Everytime I go, I am always suprised by the amazing quality of all the food, and even though the menu doesn´t change except for their daily specials, it always surprises me. In the picture, is Gorka, my friend who works at the door, and in the past, used to sing out the tapas that were finishing.


The bar is standing room only, but for the one table that seats 12. You have to reserve it well in advance though, since its usually booked months before.




Last night, I had my usual. Started off with the Olive mix, then on to "Matrimonio" which is an white anchovy fillet on top of a normal one. The intermingling taste atop a slice of fresh, crusty bread with tomatoes is mouthwatering. Then, we had the "Ensaladilla Russa" which is a potato salad with tuna, eggs, olives and red pepper. I think that Inopia has the best one in town. Then we had the fried shrimp....I can´t explain how amazing this dish is. The batter is so unique, I was explained that it is almost a trade secret, the way they marinate the shrimp in the batter, softens the shell so you can pop the whole thing in your mouth, giving you this crispy crusty morsel of deliciousness.....no words. Then on to the daily special, which were porcini mushroom fritters, oh my God. It was like a party in my mouth. Amazing. Then of course, the "Patatas Bravas" which is fried potatoes with a spicy sauce and Alioli.




The best part about Inopia though, is that across the street is my favorite bar of all, XIX. It is a small bar on the corner of Tamarit and Rocafort, and it's unique for its tremendous selection of Gins. I am a gin aficionado. It is a philosophy. Before or after dinner, a stop here is well worth it. Not only for its selection of gins, but because Mike, (top picture) owner of the bar, prepares them so lovingly. You can´t imagine what a pleasure it is to see someone prepare your cocktail this way, it's a show in itself. I'm not going to give the details of what he does, because seeing it for the first time with your own eyes is something not to be missed. Suffice to say, that each gin has different ingredients, and each Gin and Tonic is prepared differently to make your sipping experience all the better. I highly highly highly recommend the two places, as a fantastic night out in Barcelona!
Check ya later,
C


Thursday, November 26, 2009

Thanksgiving day massacre







I am about to shoot someone, something, somehow. Woke up this morning, lo and behold, no gas. So, that means no hot water, and no cooking. AAAAAAAARRRRRRGGGGG!!!!!!!!




Anyhow, I am trying to be a calm person and am praying that they don´t decide to switch it off tomorrow as well, since I am celebrating Thanksgiving tomorrow. Anyhow, went to the market to pick up the Turkeys, two beautiful 12 lb birds from my lovely turkey lady, Maria Jose, whose picture you can see above. Then, went to my vegetable guy, to get the rest of my veggies, and the cranberries. 11 freakin euros. They knocked off a euro for me cause they know me, but 11 freakin euros????

Ok, deep breaths.
So, pumpkin pie. I love pumpkin pie. But the last few years that I have made pumpkin pie, it inexplicably gets left behind.....only a few people having fearlessly tried it. See in Spain, pumpkin is something you eat as a vegetable side, the maximum being in soups. So, last year I tried a recipe from Martha Stewart, The triple chocolate pumpkin pie, and alas, it was a complete hit! I told everyone that it was a chocolate pie, then after it was all gone, explained that it also had pumpkin in it. So, this year I am doing it again, since I will have different guests, and the recipe follows:
Triple Chocolate Pumpkin Pie
Serves 12
Graham Cracker Crust
2 cups finely ground graham cracker crumbs (about 16 crackers, and for those of us who live outside of the U.S., I find that digestive cookies work fabulously)

3 oz. (6 tbsp) unsalted butter, melted
1 tbsp granulated sugar
2 tbsps packed light brown sugar
1/2 tsp coarse salt
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
3 oz. bittersweet chocolate (61 % cacao) finely chopped

Filling
6 oz. semisweet chocolate (55% cacao) chopped
2 oz. (4 tbsp) unsalted butter, cut into small peices
1 can (15 oz.) solid pack pumpkin * (I prefer to use fresh pumpkins, I find that two small ones roasted in the oven at 375 (190C) for 45 min. give it a sweeter and nicer taste)
1 can (12 oz.) evaporated milk
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
3 large eggs
1 tbsp cornstarch
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/2 tsp coarse salt
3/4 tsp ground cinnamon
3/4 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
Ground cloves
1 oz. milk chocolate, melted

1. Make the crust: Preheat oven to 350ºF (175º C). Combine graham cracker crumbs, butter, sugars, salt, and cinnamon in a bowl. Firmly press mixture into bottom and up sides of a deep, 9 1/2 inche pie dish. Bake until firm, 8-10 minutes.

2. Remove from oven, and sprinkle bittersweet chocolate over bottom of crust. Return to oven to melt chocolate, about 1 minute. Spread chocolate in a thin layer on bottom and up sides. (You can do this with the back of a spoon) Let cool on a wire rack. Reduce oven temp to 325 deg. (150 C)

3. Make the filling: In a large heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water, melt semisweet chocolate and butter, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat.

4. Mix pumpkin, milk, brown sugar, eggs, cornstarch, vanilla, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and a pinch of cloves in a medium bowl. Whisk 1/3 of the pumpkin mix into chocolate mixture. Whisk in remaining pumpkin mixture until completely incorporated.

5. Transfer pie dish to a rimme baking sheet and pour pumpkin mixture into crust. Bake until center is set but still a bit wobbly, 55-60 minutes. Let cool in pie dish set on a wire rack. Refrigerate until well chilled, at least 8 hours (preferabley overnight). Before serving, drizzle melted milk chocolate on top. Serve immediately.

Try it next year, I swear it is truly sublime!
HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE!
C



Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Day 2 Pies and shopping















I miss one stop shopping. Gone are the days when I use to park my highly un-economical and un-earth friendly vehicle in a parking lot the size of Wisconsin, grab my super size shopping cart and start perusing the 572 aisles chock full of everything known to man. The American Supermarket. *Sigh* Oh those days are gone. Now, when I have a shopping list of things like the one for this Thanksgiving, I have to co-ordinate the time, places and how many carts and eco-friendly bags its going to take me. So, now I just lace up my converse, grab my grandma cart (with ice cooler included, its so cool you have no idea) and map out the diverse amounts of markets, stores and stands that I am going to visit to get your basic ingredients.


So, today, shopped for the basics that I could get across the street. Stuff like flour, butter, basic veggies (but can you imagine they didn´t have sweet potatoes or corn starch?!?) to start making the pie dough. Today, I just basically tackled the Pâte Sucrée. This is your basic pie crust. You can use this for Pecan, Pumpkin, Apple......the list is infinate. I am personally using this for a Cranberry tart. I know in my last post I said I was making a Cranberry upside down cake, but this morning in the shower, I realized, I use ground almonds in my cake. I have one particular guest, who is the most epicurious of all, and he was very very excited to try the cranberry cake. but uh-oh. He´s allergic to nuts. So I had to crazily think of another option that would include cranberries. So, instead of your bluberry pie, I am making cranberry tarte. It sounds so much more sofisticated, vrai?


So, on to the recipe for my basic Pâte Sucrée, courtesy of ESCUELA CULINARIA HOFMANN (My alma mater)


575 gr (2 1/2 cups) flour

4 Tbps sugar

230 gr. ( 1 cup)unsalted butter (chilled and cut into little cubes)

2 egg yolks, slightly beaten

55ml. (1/4 cup) ice water.



In the bowl of a mixer or food processor (if you don´t have one, just a med size bowl) combine the flour and sugar. Add the butter, and mix or process until it resembles coarse crumbs.....if you are doing this by hand, you have to dip your hands into the flour and butter, and mix with the tip of your fingers until this happens, this takes about 10 minutes. (I know...time consuming...buy hey, you like to cook, right?)


In a small bowl, mis the ice water with the egg yolks. While your machine is running, add the egg and water mixture. Mix until dough comes together without being wet or sticky. If it is too wet, add a little more flour (tbsp at a time) or if it is too crumbly, add a little more water (tbsp at a time) this shouldn´t take you more than 30 seconds. When it is done, make it into a ball, flatten it into a disk, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour, preferably overnight.



You can freeze this for up to a month!


















Side note....Last night´s dinner.

Yesterday, I had an overwhelming desire for Wiener Schnitzel mit Pommes Frites. It just came on, all of a sudden. So....I did, without the Pommes frites. Basically, I had cotoletta alla Milanesa. I love to eat this with a side salad of Rucola with just a little oil, lemon and parmesan shavings. This dish is so near and dear to my heart, because it reminds me of my school days, especially when we used to go skiing in St. Moritz. I don´t particularly remember the restaurant's name where we used to eat it, but I do remember the sensation of utter happiness when you would chew on that butter dredged morsel.

The secret to a great Wiener Schitzel, or Cotoletta (whatever you choose to call it) is in the bread crumb batter. I personally always use my Uncle Gianni´s method. It is fool-proof. Whatever it is you are coating, whether it be veal or chicken, we always use the same batter ingredients.

In a medium size bowl, combine 2 or 3 eggs (depending on how many fillets you are going to coat) with just a bit of milk, salt pepper and then grate some parmesan cheese into it. In a flat baking dish, place the bread crumbs so you can easily coat the whole fillet.

So, you dunk the fillet into the egg mixture, make sure it is completely coated, and then lift it up so the excess egg drips off. Then cover it with the bread crumbs. then dip it again into the egg mix, and then again into the bread crumbs, but this time, place the fillet in the palms of your hands after you coated it with breadcrumbs and start patting it down all over, so you can feel the crumbs almost becoming one with the fillet. Do this until you feel that it is dry, and the whole fillet is covered. Set aside and do with the remaining fillets.

In a deep frying pan, over medium heat, heat up a generous amount of oil. I usually use a mixture of olive and sunflower oil. The reason for this, is that sunflower oil can heat up at a higher temperature than olive oil, that way your fillets will brown evenly. Fry them until they become just golden on each side. Remember that they will continue to brown after you take them out. Place them on a paper napkin to soak up the excess oil.

I usually serve them with a lemon wedge, and as I said, a side salad of rucula with a bit of oil, lemon and parmesan shavings. Voila....perfection.

Check ya later on today for the pie recipes......if I can haggle down the price of the cranberries. If not, it´s blueberries this thanksgiving.
Carla

Monday, November 23, 2009

Day 1

Ok, so today had pretty much a full tuesday to fill. Had all these thoughts about being a sporty person. I wanted to go to the gym, swim 5k, run for 20 minutes. Anyone who knows me, would realize that I would get diverted. Diverted by what? Thoughts about food.



Basically, let me introduce myself, so you can get to know me too. I am a mother, first and foremost, lover of life, food, wine and all things to do with eating, tasting, creating and thinking about all things culinary. My background is Colombian, Italian, Eqyptian, Syrian. I grew up in Miami, Nassau, Bahamas and Lugano, Switzerland. That makes for an amazing combination of tastes!

Soooo, enough about me, let´s talk about food. This week is one of the most important for me, being Thanksgiving. I basically start to prepare well in the beginning of the month. Deciding the menu, planning the guest list, searching for the ingredients, and the most important part is going to "Aviram Maria Jose" in the Mercat de Sant Josep, a.k.a The Boqueria. (Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I live in Barcelona now.) I have always loved thanksgiving, and probably even more now, because the majority of the people who come to my house for dinner, have only seen these types of celebrations on television and the movies. They're always talking about "Oooh, those turkeys, they're so big". Well, that is not something that I can accomplish here. See, europe, generally has small ovens (unless you're a millionaire). One year I had about 20 guests for my dinner. So I got a 21 lb. turkey. That is about a 10kg turkey, and my turkey lady gave me this look like I was absolutely nuts for wanting a turkey that large, and she also had a ridiculous time trying to find it. Anyhow, she found one, I proudly brought it home, stuffed it, covered it with butter and sage, and then tried to place it in the roaster. It didn't fit. So, my only option was to place it on the roasting pan that comes with the oven, haven taken all the other pans and racks out, on the bottom layer. Ok, so far so good, it kind of fit.....after I had placed tin foil over the top so as not to get the oven coil marks on the turkey.....

All was going well, until my friend who was helping me out while I took a shower, starting screaming like an Irish banshee! I rushed out of the shower, only to witness my oven in flames. Yes...the oven was completely on fire!!!! We tried pulling it out, only for the flames to start licking up towards the ceiling......minutes of madness when we grabbed some kitchen towels, wet them completely and started throwing them into the oven, to no avail. Finally, I rushed out into the hallway, towel and all, grabbed the fire extinguisher.....and well, I guess you can imagine what the turkey looked like.

Since that episode, I have always done two, or three turkeysdepending on the guest list. Turkey is great cold, warm, hot. Whatever. So on to this year. This year I have a list of epicurious guests. So, the menu had to be quite spectacular. And they also are highly doubtful that anything good can come from American cuisine. This is the part I love most. When I get to say......Told ya so.

So, my menu is as follows, some things borrowed from Martha Stewart (Spice Brine +butter + pumpkin pie) and some from the Williams Sonoma website, tweaked to my preference.

Menu :

Two Spice Brined Turkeys with Spice butter gravy
Challah and pancetta stuffing
Roast garlic mashed potatoes with cream cheese
Sweet potato roulade with spiced pecans
Black trumpet and porcini mushroom green beans with parmesan and crispy onions
Braised chestnuts and jerusalem artichokes with marsala cream sauce
Balsamic glazed pearl onions
Cream biscuits
Triple chocolate pumpkin pie
Cranberry upside down cake with sweet ginger whipped cream

So....this is my task for the next few days. Come back tomorrow and we'll take about the pies, and their crusts. And how much I am going to pay for cranberries in this country.
And pray that my oven doesn´t catch fire this year.
Check ya later!
C